Figs are a Mediterranean plant, and Rockaway Park is not the Mediterranean. Even so, with the right variety and a little care they fruit here every year. This guide is our own experience, not a horticultural reference; treat it as a starting point and check your local extension service for advice specific to your area.
Choose a variety that regrows
The most important decision is the variety. In a cold winter the top growth of a fig may die back to the ground. A variety like Chicago Hardy regrows from the roots in spring and ripens a main crop on that new growth in the same season. Varieties that need old wood to fruit, or that need a long season, will grow but rarely ripen.
Site
Full sun, and as much warmth as you can find: a south- or west-facing wall, a paved area, a spot sheltered from the wind off the water. Figs are not fussy about soil but hate sitting in water.
Winter
There are three approaches, and we have used all of them.
- Wrap the tree in place. Tie the branches together, wrap in burlap or insulating fabric, and cover the top against rain. Unwrap in spring once hard frosts are past.
- Grow in a container and move the dormant tree into an unheated garage or shed once the leaves drop. Water lightly once a month. Bring it out in spring.
- Accept dieback and rely on regrowth. Mulch the base heavily. This works for Chicago Hardy and is the least work, at the cost of a later, smaller crop.
Prune for the main crop
Because the crop we rely on forms on new wood, we prune in late winter to a manageable framework and let the tree push new growth. See Breba crop and main crop.
Expect a late season
Our main crop starts ripening in late August and continues into October. The last figs of the year are a race against the first cold nights; anything still hard in mid-October is unlikely to ripen and is best left for the birds.